Green Heart of Bali

Mornings in the rice fields

Ubud surprised me. I expected busy cafés and yoga studios — and they’re there — but step a little outside town and you’re suddenly surrounded by emerald rice terraces stretching down every hillside.

I’d start each day walking the Campuhan Ridge before the heat set in, then disappear into a warung for nasi campur. The pace is gentle here, and after a few days you stop checking the time.

Don’t miss

The Tegallalang terraces early in the morning, a scooter ride through the back roads, and as many fresh young coconuts as you can drink.